You salt the chops and the Meishan fat begins to glisten. These are pasture-raised cuts whose marbling is fine enough to keep them tender yet decisive. Grill or sear them hot and brief, to 145 degrees and no further, then rest them the way you rest a good sentence. The flavor is cleaner and more complete than the pale chops that arrive already resigned; you will taste the difference and the savings at the same time.